This is probably the best video I've seen on how to tie the FG knot.
http://www.sportfishingmag.com/fg-knot-made-easy
http://www.sportfishingmag.com/fg-knot-made-easy
This is probably the best video I've seen on how t
- Thread starter rbacht
- Start date
Thats a good demo video and probably the easiest to follow.
His braid onto braid half hitches make me wonder...am knot sure about that.
Am trying and testing this knot, just am knot sure if it will hold out when you get a heavy duckbill or bronze onto it!!
Any comments from you?
:?:?:?
His braid onto braid half hitches make me wonder...am knot sure about that.
Am trying and testing this knot, just am knot sure if it will hold out when you get a heavy duckbill or bronze onto it!!
Any comments from you?
:?:?:?
Dr halibut hoffman
Moderator
Once you get the knot down, it will hold as well as your line you tie it with no matter what is on the other end.. You must hold both main and tag of braid once done with your wraps and cinch them the hell down as hard as you can, with the knot being wet with spit, gloves help to grab the braid without slicing off a finger.
Then I do one half hitch to hold the knot, pull again to make sure the wraps are seated, cut the leader tag short and melt a tiny swell on the end with a windproof lighter and well wetted knot held out of the way in my finger tip, then half-hitch till I run out of leader and the one that goes behind on the line I pull tight (the whole time keeping tension on main braid so hitches go around that and they don't twist the mainline). The next half hitch, second one on the braid I do in opposing direction to lock it and tighten that down, then I do a bunch on uni-directional half-hitches, more does not make it stronger, 4 here is plenty, but I do enough to make a nice ramp for my bolletjie on the mono so it all goes smoothly through the guides on retrieve and doesn't catch. Once ramp is done, I do 2 opposing half-hitches, so one direction, then next, then other, then next, then pull tight and I trim the tag off to 1mm or 2mm at most and flair that slightly with the scissors if I have time..If I'm outa time, I skip half of this stuff and just tie it as best I can, pulling it in each step and making sure its good after before throwing it.
Anyway, tied like that I can what ever I need to and can throw for days without it unravelling.
Then I do one half hitch to hold the knot, pull again to make sure the wraps are seated, cut the leader tag short and melt a tiny swell on the end with a windproof lighter and well wetted knot held out of the way in my finger tip, then half-hitch till I run out of leader and the one that goes behind on the line I pull tight (the whole time keeping tension on main braid so hitches go around that and they don't twist the mainline). The next half hitch, second one on the braid I do in opposing direction to lock it and tighten that down, then I do a bunch on uni-directional half-hitches, more does not make it stronger, 4 here is plenty, but I do enough to make a nice ramp for my bolletjie on the mono so it all goes smoothly through the guides on retrieve and doesn't catch. Once ramp is done, I do 2 opposing half-hitches, so one direction, then next, then other, then next, then pull tight and I trim the tag off to 1mm or 2mm at most and flair that slightly with the scissors if I have time..If I'm outa time, I skip half of this stuff and just tie it as best I can, pulling it in each step and making sure its good after before throwing it.
Anyway, tied like that I can what ever I need to and can throw for days without it unravelling.
Limpopoking
Sealiner
Psy wrote:
Psy, don't coat the whole knot with Knot Sense... the wraps of braid need to move in order to increase their angle to the leader material, and thus clamp down on it, Use Knot Sense only on the half hitches. That's one area that has the tendency to unravel after time. BTW, this is now my out-and-out trusted braid to leader knot.
Ja, i tried it a few times, its holding,
I'm using gloves too to pull the *** off of it.
I have also coated it with Knot Sense.
Well ill give it a gooi...if it comes loose I will knot be breaking my b**s over it!!
Psy, don't coat the whole knot with Knot Sense... the wraps of braid need to move in order to increase their angle to the leader material, and thus clamp down on it, Use Knot Sense only on the half hitches. That's one area that has the tendency to unravel after time. BTW, this is now my out-and-out trusted braid to leader knot.
Psy wrote:
Hi Psy
By "gives" do you mean stretches? i don't believe it does really, but the mono / fluoro it's wrapped around does under pressure, then the braid wraps need to move with it slightly to bite in and grip it properly - the more pressure the more this must happen. putting knotsense / glue on the wraps also hardens them, not major but not quite so lekker for when it's going through your guides.
i only apply to the halfhitches at the very end to prevent any unraveling here, never had any problems (i also use normal SuperQ superglue - tip i saw from Trophy on another post if memory serves - it's runnier so penetrates the threads well, also cheap / easy to get hold of. also learnt it's best to not tie these final halfhitches too tight, eg. only pull tight with hands rather than teeth/pliers - too much tension here and the braid cuts through itself here under enough strain. the first two around the leader i do pull very tight.
i've a few friends who've tried the FG and abandoned it as it failed them, not to be unkind but i am 110% certain it's just because they did not manage to tie it properly - i've been using it just over a year now, probably tied well over 200 on three different rods an it's only failed me twice way back when i first started (i don't just use it for for attaching my mono/fluoro leaders, also for my braid mainline to braid leader - 25lb to 50lb, and 50lb to 150/180lb). it's an absolutely amazing knot, most important is to pull those wraps tight as ****, i use leather gloves, do it after first half hitch around leader, then again after 2nd one / snipping leader tag, then again once all done / braid tag trimmed and glued - each time 6 or so short but HARD tugs then a couple of long hard ones until it feels like my head's gonna pop (on 50lb braid anyways). when the braid wraps look shiny all the way through set righ i know it good.
and usually once it's all done i sit and admire my knot a few minutes and feel like a bit of a freak / nerd that i can love a knot so much
Hi Psy
By "gives" do you mean stretches? i don't believe it does really, but the mono / fluoro it's wrapped around does under pressure, then the braid wraps need to move with it slightly to bite in and grip it properly - the more pressure the more this must happen. putting knotsense / glue on the wraps also hardens them, not major but not quite so lekker for when it's going through your guides.
i only apply to the halfhitches at the very end to prevent any unraveling here, never had any problems (i also use normal SuperQ superglue - tip i saw from Trophy on another post if memory serves - it's runnier so penetrates the threads well, also cheap / easy to get hold of. also learnt it's best to not tie these final halfhitches too tight, eg. only pull tight with hands rather than teeth/pliers - too much tension here and the braid cuts through itself here under enough strain. the first two around the leader i do pull very tight.
i've a few friends who've tried the FG and abandoned it as it failed them, not to be unkind but i am 110% certain it's just because they did not manage to tie it properly - i've been using it just over a year now, probably tied well over 200 on three different rods an it's only failed me twice way back when i first started (i don't just use it for for attaching my mono/fluoro leaders, also for my braid mainline to braid leader - 25lb to 50lb, and 50lb to 150/180lb). it's an absolutely amazing knot, most important is to pull those wraps tight as ****, i use leather gloves, do it after first half hitch around leader, then again after 2nd one / snipping leader tag, then again once all done / braid tag trimmed and glued - each time 6 or so short but HARD tugs then a couple of long hard ones until it feels like my head's gonna pop (on 50lb braid anyways). when the braid wraps look shiny all the way through set righ i know it good.
and usually once it's all done i sit and admire my knot a few minutes and feel like a bit of a freak / nerd that i can love a knot so much
Limpopoking
Sealiner
Psy wrote:
Rots summed it up pretty well... the braid, having NO give bites into the mono/flouro. Also, as he states, the first 2 or 3 turns must be wrapped damn tight. Any slippage there and it will defeat the aim of the knot. It's also for this reason that it's not a knot suited to to casting through the guides, because the bottom of the knot (the lowest or first wraps) connect with the guides in a way that pushes them up towards the leader tag, thus undermining the whole principle of the "finger cuff".
Rots summed it up pretty well... the braid, having NO give bites into the mono/flouro. Also, as he states, the first 2 or 3 turns must be wrapped damn tight. Any slippage there and it will defeat the aim of the knot. It's also for this reason that it's not a knot suited to to casting through the guides, because the bottom of the knot (the lowest or first wraps) connect with the guides in a way that pushes them up towards the leader tag, thus undermining the whole principle of the "finger cuff".
Dr halibut hoffman
Moderator
What rots said..
"when the braid wraps look shiny all the way through set righ i know it good."
Your wraps of braid must change colour, thats the ticket. AND then if your first half hitch that goes under the mono and not on it is tightly tucked and then oppose one to keep it there as I said before, AND the rest don't loose tension then you are good..keep the next series tight after the mono is run out, the ones running on the braid, but just under hand tightness, more snug so they aren't going anywhere, and then finish it off with 2 series of opposing half hitches to lock them..then you can cast that through guides all day long and not have an issue. I can go for session after session casting the same knot for thousands of casts, until my leader is too short or chaffed from rocks, then I'll redo it. Otherwise once done properly it is good for the life of the leader, even for constant spinning, cast after cast, through the guides. I like my fg just after/at the first guide from the reel side, or just at the next one for no guide wrapping. I can spin all day long like that. And do it again and again.
The wraps must change colour to show that they are under tension properly and then if it does not loose that tension you are good to go, a weakness on your mainline will be weaker 99% of the time. Glue advice as above..
"when the braid wraps look shiny all the way through set righ i know it good."
Your wraps of braid must change colour, thats the ticket. AND then if your first half hitch that goes under the mono and not on it is tightly tucked and then oppose one to keep it there as I said before, AND the rest don't loose tension then you are good..keep the next series tight after the mono is run out, the ones running on the braid, but just under hand tightness, more snug so they aren't going anywhere, and then finish it off with 2 series of opposing half hitches to lock them..then you can cast that through guides all day long and not have an issue. I can go for session after session casting the same knot for thousands of casts, until my leader is too short or chaffed from rocks, then I'll redo it. Otherwise once done properly it is good for the life of the leader, even for constant spinning, cast after cast, through the guides. I like my fg just after/at the first guide from the reel side, or just at the next one for no guide wrapping. I can spin all day long like that. And do it again and again.
The wraps must change colour to show that they are under tension properly and then if it does not loose that tension you are good to go, a weakness on your mainline will be weaker 99% of the time. Glue advice as above..
hehe, see i made a bit of a typo there, but you guys understood.
Doc, yeah i devised something similar with how i finish off at the end, also so that the knot/s can handle going through the guides better and for longer. i did this as the mainline to braid leader knot has to go through the guides, no way around that, and although i prefer having the one to the mono / fluoro leader stay outside the guides at all times, sometimes i'll make it a bit longer, eg. for when i know i'll be fishing between the bricks all day where one wants better abrasion-resistance and distance / big casts aren't as necessary, and i'll likely be trimming off quite a bit due to abrasion or changing terminal tackle...
Your opposing half-hitches sound even better, reckon i'll try it, but lately I've been finishing with two single overhands, then a final one with four wraps back towards the two singles - these i snug down very carefully so they don't overlap then tighten snug but not too tight as you describe, then just a drop of glue - so far no issues and lasts ages. and it also makes a nice "ramp" as you mentioned in an earlier post.
i check everything before and after most casts, but it's been ages since i re-tied an FG for any reason other than my mono/fluoro leader becoming too short from trimming with terminal-changes, from it getting roughed up on structure, or from it whitening with age (which to me means it's getting brittle).
bit off topic, but i am very glad i started using a braid leader a couple months ago - lasts ten times longer than thinner main line - the bionic finger abraded 50lb mainline quite quickly - every third/fourth session i would have to trim off several meters to get this weak section out, now i only have to replace the leader very occasionally and only lose 20cm or so mainline at a time, which is awesome - we all know the cost of braid! recently got a proper spinning / dropshot set-up and decided to do the same (25lb main, 50lb braid leader, 60lb fluoro leader) as i heard the casting glove will also wear through thinner braids quite quickly. On all 3 my setups the knot goes through the guides fine too, helps that it's braid to braid - somewhat more supple/soft than braid to mono/fluoro.
Doc, yeah i devised something similar with how i finish off at the end, also so that the knot/s can handle going through the guides better and for longer. i did this as the mainline to braid leader knot has to go through the guides, no way around that, and although i prefer having the one to the mono / fluoro leader stay outside the guides at all times, sometimes i'll make it a bit longer, eg. for when i know i'll be fishing between the bricks all day where one wants better abrasion-resistance and distance / big casts aren't as necessary, and i'll likely be trimming off quite a bit due to abrasion or changing terminal tackle...
Your opposing half-hitches sound even better, reckon i'll try it, but lately I've been finishing with two single overhands, then a final one with four wraps back towards the two singles - these i snug down very carefully so they don't overlap then tighten snug but not too tight as you describe, then just a drop of glue - so far no issues and lasts ages. and it also makes a nice "ramp" as you mentioned in an earlier post.
i check everything before and after most casts, but it's been ages since i re-tied an FG for any reason other than my mono/fluoro leader becoming too short from trimming with terminal-changes, from it getting roughed up on structure, or from it whitening with age (which to me means it's getting brittle).
bit off topic, but i am very glad i started using a braid leader a couple months ago - lasts ten times longer than thinner main line - the bionic finger abraded 50lb mainline quite quickly - every third/fourth session i would have to trim off several meters to get this weak section out, now i only have to replace the leader very occasionally and only lose 20cm or so mainline at a time, which is awesome - we all know the cost of braid! recently got a proper spinning / dropshot set-up and decided to do the same (25lb main, 50lb braid leader, 60lb fluoro leader) as i heard the casting glove will also wear through thinner braids quite quickly. On all 3 my setups the knot goes through the guides fine too, helps that it's braid to braid - somewhat more supple/soft than braid to mono/fluoro.
Ohk, I am understanding it more and more.
The nonsense (Knot Sense) is quite pliable, although I did coat the whole knot with it, I am beginning to see your point.
I watched a few other videos particularly the Oz ouens are quite good at teaching all us roof koppe the proper way.
Thanks for the advice....
I will scrap what I have done and redo it.
The nonsense (Knot Sense) is quite pliable, although I did coat the whole knot with it, I am beginning to see your point.
I watched a few other videos particularly the Oz ouens are quite good at teaching all us roof koppe the proper way.
Thanks for the advice....
I will scrap what I have done and redo it.
Dr halibut hoffman
Moderator
After tying it, go and hook it up to a tree in the yard, on your rod and all, and pull it as hard as you need to convince yourself that it won't give on a fish..haha check if your drag is smooth under near lockdown.. Check the knot afterwards..once its been pulled that tight, it's not going anywhere and you will have an idea of how capable it or your tying abilities are or aren't..? I do this if I have the time to set my gear up before fishing..I know I've pulled that knot as hard as I can..as well as a stitch..complete faith in them.
I also converted to using the FG a season or 2 ago... did allot of testing and practicing, and am more and more impressed with it. Endorsement aside, the only thing i can add is that when it comes to tensioning, the leather welding glove thing didn't really work for me. I use 2 pieces of 10 or 12mm hardwood dowel each approx 8 cm long to put a few turns of the braid and mono around each dowel on either side off the knot to provide a handle to pull on. Particularly on the braid side, just make sure the wraps don't overlap or they may cut into each other and make a weak spot.
Fredster wrote:
Great tip Fred! I've done the same in the past, grabbed a couple of empty ghost-cotton spools and worked very well, better than the gloves really. Just needed to put on a LOT of wraps on the braid-side as they keep slipping, i would think wood would work better, also thought of taking dowels and slipping some irrigation / hose pipe over for even more grip as well as added protection for the braid, just haven't gotten around to it. And you're right - very important the wraps don't overlap...
Great tip Fred! I've done the same in the past, grabbed a couple of empty ghost-cotton spools and worked very well, better than the gloves really. Just needed to put on a LOT of wraps on the braid-side as they keep slipping, i would think wood would work better, also thought of taking dowels and slipping some irrigation / hose pipe over for even more grip as well as added protection for the braid, just haven't gotten around to it. And you're right - very important the wraps don't overlap...